Short Shifter Install
-phatwhippin_CRX
Supplies Needed:
A Wratchet w/ metric sockets
Flathead screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
A Jack
Jackstands
Some WD-40
Alot of patience
Metric wrenches (10mm, 9mm)
Some bearing grease
Procedure:
Step 1: With car off, and on level ground-
Remove the shift knob, and 6 phillips head screws, so that you can take the center console off and can see the shifter assembly.
Step 2: Jack Car up, put jackstands under it-
Find the shift linkage. It extends from the tranny to the shfter. The linkage connects to the shifter, and the shifter is held in by a round bracket. Take the stock bolt (s) that hold the shifter to the linkage out. now push the linkage aside. The exhaust makes the next part a pain in the ass. Use the wratchet to un-bolt the bracket, which is holding the shifter in. Use some WD-40, the bolts are most likely rusty as hell. After the bracket comes loose, pull the shifter down, it should slide right out. There is a rubber boot around it, take it off. You may need the flathead screwdriver to pry it off. Now slide the boot over the shifter ball, make sure you coat the ball with grease before you put the boot back on.
Installation is the reverse of the previous steps
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Header Install
-Steel
Read through entire instructions before beginning.
Parts:
New Header
Gasket for in between header piece one and two
Recommended:
New exhaust manifold gasket
New cat gasket. Connects to very end of header and is rather big. Fits in catylitic converter.
1. Inspect new headers for all parts and quality. There should be gasket for where the header connects the first piece to the second.
2. Unbolt the second header piece from the catalytic converter. Now is a great time to hollow out the cat. Not that I do that sort of thing.
3. Unbolt the stock manifold second piece from the top piece.
4. Unbolt stock exhaust manifold piece one from block.
5. You should now have nothing attached to the exhaust manifold
6. Replace gaskets if necessary or you choose too.
7. Bolt new header #1 piece to the exhaust manifold. Tight bolts from the inside out.
8. Take second header piece from the bottom part of the car and connect to the first piece, remembering to insert gaskets.
9. Connect second header piece to the cat, once again remember the gasket.
10. Yell "Look ma, I got me a fast car"
If you have problems with bolts spray on wd-40 then wait about 5 minutes. And I mean soak them in the stuff!
Remember. Gaskets are very important and can cause exhaust leaks which can lead to you being slower and louder.
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Clutch Install
-phatwhippin_CRX
OK, well it's really easy if you have the motor out, and acces to a cherrypicker. If the motor is in the car still, then it's a bit tricky. From what I hear, it's worth it to pull the motor to save yourself more headacjes by trying to keep the fucker in and do it. So here goes. Keep in mind this is for the B16, but it should be very similar to any other FWD clutch install...
First thing I did was to unclip/unplug all sensors, wires, hoses etc. that were attached to the tranny either directly or by a bracket. Just keep everything on the motor side. Now I took the starter out first, just to make some more room to work with. Theres 2 bolts, 14mm I believe one on each side. The right one is relatively long. The left one is fuckin long as shit. Don't worry if it is hard to get out, and makes funny noises. It's not gonna break, it's just hella long and tight.
Next, get a 17mm socket and take off the tranny bolts, where the block and tranny meet. There should be 8 or so.. 2 short ones. Remember where they all go, it'll help. Now, remove the bolts from the flywheel inspection plate. I think its 2 14mm, and 2 10mm bolts. After they are out, ya can pull the tranny competely off the block. It takes a good pull, but it comes off.
Now you can get to the flywheel and stuff. The pressure plate --> flywheel bolts are 10MM 12-point make sure you have one before you start, it's a pain to have to go buy one. Try to get one with a 3/8" drive or something that is pretty common. Now you can remove the bolts. The pressure plate can be pulled off now, then the clutch disc. Check the flyweel for marks and scoring. If it needs it, get it machined. If not, then keep it on. In the center of that is the pilot bearing. If it is in good shape, don't change it. All clutch kits recommend the use of Honda bearings anyway........
Now, using a clutch alignment tool, put the disc up to the flywheel and let it sit there. Then line up the pressure plate (so that the 3 small dowels enter the spots provided on the PP.) and all the bolt holes line up. Then tighten the fucker down good. (30 ft-lbs I believe?) The throw out bearing is on the inside of the bell housing, when you pull up on the release arm, it pushes out (therefore engaging the clutch, duh) I didnt replace mine, as it was in good shape. I'd recommend the same, unless you HAVE to replace it.....
Now put the tranny back onto the block, don't forget any bolts. Torque everything down good (the big bolts get like 42ft-lbs, the smaller ones are around 20ft-lbs) You should be good to go now........ well, after ya put the engine back in
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