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Battery To Trunk Relocation
-phatwhippin_CRX
What you will need:
Look in the garage:
Misc. Metric Sockets (cuz I dont remember the exact sizes!)
Socket Wrench
Wire Cutters (must be able to cut through THICK ASS WIRE)
Wire Brush (to expose metal for a good ground)
Now go to Home Depot or the like and buy:
10' of Shielded 4 Guage Power wire
1' of Shielded 4 Guage Ground Wire (just in case)
And off to pep boys:
2 Adjustable Battery Terminal Posts
Sealed Battery ( I got the Optima Red Top)
To rig it like I did:
Grab a drill
A big bolt
Some drill bits
4 misc. brackets from home depot (hinges and door aisle)
2 Short Bungee Cords
First ya gotta unhook the (-) cable, so do that. Then the (+). Then take off the nuts which hold the battery bracket over the battery. They are on like 8" long screw, which sit on a plate.Remove the bracket now you can pull the battery out. You'll se a little shelf where the battery sat. You can choose to remove it, or not to. No biggie. Also, you can follow the ground wire to the ground on the motor and take that bracket off. Now, go inside the car. Remove the passenger side door trim on the bottom and pull up the carpet above the ECU. run you power wire through the hole provided in the firewall, then use your head and devise a way to run it inconspiciously to the rear of the car (I ran it along the lower door trim, under the storage compartment and back) Now go back under the hood. Find the two Factory wires that ran to the original (+) terminal. Splice them into the new power wire, and Wrap with lots of electric tape. Close the hood Now, go into the trunk. Decide how/where you will mount your battery. Some people use a supplied battery box. Others (like myself) use a sealed battery. Now how I mounted it was to drill holes for the mounting brackets. From the SIDE view, they look like an upside down "V" or "U"
They are like a loop. I mounted them into the floor in the back, so that they'd be right against the battery. Then I looped the bungee from corner to corner, over tha battery. The bitches are tight, ain't goin anywhere. Then get your wire brush. Remove some paint till ya get to bare metal, then ground your ground wire to that with a bolt through the floor OR ground it to the shock tower. Start the bitch up, you should be done
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Replace Your Radiator
-cottagecreep
Things you need:
Pliers
10mm rachet
12mm wrench
Flathead Screwdriver
Drop Pan for coolant
O.K, so, you don't need to jack your car up for this, although it would be somewhat easier. But I left her on the ground. First, take your 10mm rachet, and take of the 4 bolts from the rad support things, you'll see them, two on each side, and they hold the plates that hold the rad in. Take those off, than, take off the two 10mm bolts on each fan (I have a/c, if you don't, there will be only one fan.)Than, take off the 10mm bolt holding the one a/c line to the right fan off so you can rotate it out of your way. Than, disconnect the two electrical connections on the left side fan, they are near the bottom and chould be one green and one grey. To get those, simply pull up on the clip (it looks like you push it down, but you don't) and seperate. Next, there is a plastic clamp on the right side fan that holds an a/c line, just twist it, and it comes undone, than pull out the right side fan very carefully, you have to move it to the right first to get the clip off. You'll see that clip on the very right edge of the rad, holding the fan in place. Than, carefully work it out, and place it on top of your motor, it'll still have wires attached. Next, move to the left side fan, and you have to lift the rad about 3-4inches up to be able to get that fan out, pull it out carefully, and set it aside as far as you can, it as well will be still attached. If you can get to the drain plug on your rad (I couldn't), than drain it. Than undo your upper and lower rad hoses by moving the clamps back with your pliers, and attempting to spin the hose to break the seal, this is much easier than just trying to pull straight. If that doesn't work, take your flat head screwdriver, and kinda try to get it underneath the hose to break that seal. MAKE SURE you have your drop pan under when you do this to catch the coolant. Finally, pull out you rad. Clean out the area with some soap and water, may as well when you have acces. And now would be a good time to throw on a header. Than, throw your new rad in, make sure you hit the lower holes that hold the rad, they are rubber re-inforced. Re-connect the lower rad hose, than drop the right fan in, kinda have to lift the rad again 3-4 inches if you have a/c to sneak it it. AND BE CAREFULL WITH YOUR NEW RAD!!!, don't bend the fins. After you get that fan in, drop the right side in, this is really tight, so be patient and make sure you get the clip onto the right side of the rad again, and the a/c line clamp. Bolt them back into place, re-connect you electrical connections, and bolt the rad back in. Next, you connect your upper rad hose, and prepare a 50/50 mix of coolant and water. New stuff. Fill the new rad slowly, than, leave your rad cap off, and get your 12mm wrench. There is a purge type bolt right by your upper rad hose where it connects to the motor, it has a hole in the top. Undo that bolt not all the way, but just so a couple of threads hold, and coolant should come out that hole in the top. When you do this, also the coolant level in your rad will drop, because you are bleeding it for air. Now, start your car up, and keep pouring rad fluid in till that bolt bleeds straight coolant and no air, tighten the bolt, ensure the rad is topped of and throw the cap on, let her get nice and warm to test it, look for leaks or whatever. And your done.
CAUTION: NEVER REMOVE RAD CAP WHEN ENGINE IS WARM!!!! Do this on a cool motor
I am not a trainned mechanic, this is just how I did it, it is a lot easier than it sounds, ESPECIALLY if you don't have a/c. It took me just under 3hrs.
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Body Work 101
-masta shark
now im no expert on this, but i have done it a few times to a few cars:
you'll need:
-some body filler and a creme hardner, when mixed together they'll fill in the dents
-sand paper, 80 grit, 200, 320 and 400 (or 600)
-spot filler (glaze, whatever it is, i'll edit this later)
-a sandable primer
-if the dent is big enough, a dent puller with a slide weight preferably
-and if you wanna be a little more careful, than a sanding block will help a lot
sand down the area around the dent with 80 grit sand paper. get it down to bare metal
then sand an extra few inches around the dent with 200 grit, the make it smoother and feather it out to the regular paint
if the dent is large enough, drill a hole and use the dent puller to pull the metal even. hammer the edges of the hole inward
clean the surface, and spray a rust remover/sealer if there is any evidence of rust forming
mix the body filler and creme hardner, but make sure you do it in the right proportions.
take a putty knife and put the body filler over the dent, making it smooth but making sure it is higher than the body (so it can be sanded down)
let it dry, and then sand it even. if there are still any rough spots or uneven spots, mix more body filler and put another layer on. if the layers are more than 1/4" thick, drill small holes to let the filler bond a little better with the layer underneath
sand it sand it and sand it...the better you sand the better it will look afterwards. if you dont sand it smooth and even, you will see it when the paint is applied
when its all sanded down and even with the metal, apply a thin layer of glaze to smooth the surface and cover any imperfections.
sand that even, and when done coat it with a thin coat of primer.
sand the primer with 320 grit sandpaper, clean it and apply another coat or two of primer. (two if the coats are very thin)
sand it with the 400 grit sandpaper (wetsand it) and maybe with the 600 grit if you want a REALLY smooth surface.
the spot should be ready for paint...
doing body work is easy, but you do have to pay attention to detail, because if you dont you will notice it after the paint is applied. if you take your time (lots of time) you should end up with a nicely covered spot.
and as i said, im no expert, but i have done it several times and it turned out nicelt for me.
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